Types of Rock Climbing Competitions

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Types of Rock Climbing Competitions


Because of the differences in climbing styles, several different types of competitions were developed to judge them. Bouldering Competitions are routes that are typically short in length, but contain high strength moves. Routes are denoted by different colors of tape. While performing a route a climber may only use rocks that are marked with that specific color of tape. Routes are given numerical values to indicate their difficulty. Indoor bouldering usually does not exceed 12 feet high, but outdoor routes can be up to 24 feet high. Because the routes are short they are typically climbed without ropes, but soft safety mats, "crash pads", are typically placed under the climber and spotters help keep the climber from falling too far and direct their fall into the safety mats. Many colleges have now developed climbing teams that compete against other college's climbing teams. Difficulty Competitions are top roping competitions in which the climber climbs a route that is at least 18 feet long. Difficulty climbs focus more on endurance then on specific move difficulty. For safety at these heights the climber wears a harness that goes around their pelvis and is attached to a rope that goes to the top of the wall. The other end of the rope is held by the belayer, a person who continues to take up the slack in the rope as the climber climbs and keeps the climber from falling more than a few feet if they slip. In Speed Climbing Competitions a climber competes against the clock to see who can complete a route the fastest. This type of competition is becoming more popular due to the spectator appeal.

Winners can be decided and points can be awarded in several different ways. In a Red Point Competition format, points are assigned to each of several routes dependent on their difficulty. As many routes as the climber wishes to attempt can be attempted within the set amount of time. The climber must successfully complete the route, and a judge (or fellow climber if allowed by the specific competition) must see the entire completion of the route to receive the points. The typical strategy for these competitions is to warm up on a few easy climbs, then move to the most difficult routes that the climber believes they can complete, then finish with some easier climbs. Most climbers will only attempt a route twice until the required number of climbs are completed, because the more times they try the less strength they will have left. The climber with the most points at the end of the time allotment wins. The On Sight Competition format is used by the National Cup and the World Cup. In this format the climbers are allowed to preview the route, they are then placed in an isolation area (where they cannot see the other climbers climb, talk about the wall or the route with the other climbers, or talk to the spectators). The climbers are only allowed one attempt at the route and the height that they obtain determines the number of points that they receive. After the climber's attempt they may remain in the viewing area, but are not allowed to go back to the isolation area. The climber who reaches the highest height wins. The Flash Competition format is a combination of the two previous formats. The climbers are not placed in isolation and are allowed to talk to other competitors and spectators as well as to watch the other climbers attempts. However, a climber may only attempt a route once and the climber is not allowed to receive any advise while they are attempting the route.

There are also different levels at which to compete. Local competitions are not sanctioned (do not award you points toward national or world ranking through the The Union Internationale Des Associations D’Alpinisme (UIAA) for international rankings or the Comite Internacionale de Competition d’Escalade (ICC) with in the UIAA to oversee the country's national team for the World Cup). Regional competitions are usually sanctioned and have courses that are set by certified course setters. National competitions are sanctioned and usually result in picking a team to represent the country in world competitions. The World Cup is a series of climbing competitions in which the best climbers from the countries compete. There are both male and female categories. At the completion of the World Cup series the climber with the most points wins. The World Championship is held every two years on Olympic off years. At the end of the competition a male and a female climber is deemed the world champion and holds the title for two years. (indoorclimbing.com)

Refrence

indoorclimbing.com. (2010). Types and Formats of Rock Climbing Competitions. Retrieved from: http://www.indoorclimbing.com/comp_types.html